Remove existing Chainrings From Crank. Note the position and orientation of the original chainrings so you can set the new ones in a similar way. Clean Inspect All Existing Hardware especially those items to be reused – like BB bearings, bolts, seals, etc.. Replace any parts that are damaged or bad. Align the Rings to the Crank: – Drive side Crank Arm – with – Pin on BIG ring – with – Alignment tab (or marking) on SMALL ring. Note: WickWërks chainrings mount so the logos face out. Bolt New Chainrings to the Crank in the same way the previous rings were attached. – Some rings sandwich the crank spider fingers; – Some chainrings bolt directly to the crank spider; – Some bolts are in pairs (male and female); – Some bolts thread into the ring or the spider. Tighten chainring bolts, but do not strip threads. Remount the crank (if needed), according to the crank manufacturers instructions. A bit of grease is usually a good idea. Check the BB for cleanliness and proper spacing while you’re at it. Set the Chain Length. Even if the new chainrings are replacing rings of the same size, set the proper chain length. We recommend a new chain with new rings. Clean and Lube the Chain. Especially with new chains, we recommend a thorough cleaning of the chain before installation. After cleaning (and drying), lube the chain completely. This will minimize noise and wear, but also enhance shifting. Adjust the Front Derailleur as needed for the new chainrings. (See that follow.)
1. Mount the derailleur so vertical spacing from the derailleur to the big ring is 2-4 mm (~1/8”) clearance. (Measure to the tall teeth, not the short ones.) 2. Set the derailleur cage parallel to the big ring outside surface or as typical for the bike. This is a starting point, as some minor adjustment may be required. Sometimes a derailleur will need Toe-in or Toe-out for optimum performance on a particular bike. See “Troubleshooting Tips” or “Quick Fix Videos” 3. With the derailleur in the small ring position, set the derailleur stop so the chain doesn’t touch the cage when running in the largest rear cog — then, adjust the cable so it is just barely not tight in this position. 4. Move the chain to the large ring, and adjust the outbound derailleur stop – for the large ring – so it allows some (just a little) overshoot. Explanation: When the shifter is pushed all the way, the derailleur moves to the stop. When shift force is relaxed, the derailleur moves back slightly. This gives positive shift pressure – chain against ring – when shifting, then relaxes for proper chain line setting as the shift completes. Adjust for individual performance (it’s different for each bike). Warning: Too much overshoot and the chain may shift right over the ring – obviously not acceptable. This adjustment may take some finesse. 5. Set the big ring chain line via cable adjustment. Note: This cable adjustment may offset the adjustment done in step 3. If a lot of adjustment is needed, reevaluate conditions and be sure other settings are correct. Proper adjustment is a balance of all the various possibilities. 6. With the bike on the stand, turn the crank and shift. Remember, shift deliberately; don’t baby it. Adjust the cable and stops as needed for perfect, quick shifts. 7. Learn the optimum shifting paradigms. Depending on your habits, it may take time to get used to shifting with intent. As you enjoy reliable front shifts, it will become easier and you’ll improve riding skills by choosing the right gear for the situation. 8. Additional fine tuning may be needed to maximize performance when riding the bike. Taking time to perfect adjustments will pay big dividends in shift performance. 9. For more info, see WickWerks.com/Quick-Fix-Videos and WickWerks.com/TroubleshootingTips.html 10. If Shift Performance degrades over time, check your derailleur cage for damage, then fine tune these adjustments.